TEST-retest reliability of kinetic variables measured on campus board in sport climbers

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dc.creatorEdgardo Álvares de Campos Abreu
dc.creatorSílvia Ribeiro Santos Araújo
dc.creatorGustavo Henrique da Cunha Peixoto Cançado
dc.creatorAndré Gustavo Pereira de Andrade
dc.creatorMauro Heleno Chagas
dc.creatorHans-Joachim Karl Menzel
dc.date.accessioned2022-07-20T18:02:37Z
dc.date.accessioned2025-09-09T01:32:36Z
dc.date.available2022-07-20T18:02:37Z
dc.date.issued2019
dc.identifier.doihttps://doi.org/10.1080/14763141.2018.1456558
dc.identifier.issn1752-6116
dc.identifier.urihttps://hdl.handle.net/1843/43474
dc.languageeng
dc.publisherUniversidade Federal de Minas Gerais
dc.relation.ispartofSports Biomechanics
dc.rightsAcesso Restrito
dc.subjectEscalada
dc.subjectEsportes radocais
dc.subjectAlpinismo - Treinamento técnico
dc.subjectForça muscular - Testes
dc.subject.otherRock climbing
dc.subject.otherOutdoor sport, alpinism
dc.subject.otherPhysical preparation
dc.subject.otherStrength
dc.titleTEST-retest reliability of kinetic variables measured on campus board in sport climbers
dc.typeArtigo de periódico
local.citation.epage662
local.citation.issue6
local.citation.spage649
local.citation.volume18
local.description.resumoSport climbers frequently use campus board (CB) to improve their upper limb strength under similar conditions of high-difficulty sport climbing routes. The objective of this study was to assess the test-retest reliability of peak force and impulse measured using a CB instrumented with two load cells on starting holds. The same evaluator examined 22 climbers on two days with 48 h between the assessments. The participants performed five concentric lunges (CL) and five lunges with stretch-shortening cycle with 1 min intervals between repetitions and 10 min between exercises. All variables were associated with significant intraclass correlation coefficient (ICC) values (p = 0.001), and none variable showed systematic errors (p > 0.05). Peak force ICC was higher than 0.88, and the standard error of measurement (SEM%) was less than 5%. Impulse ICC for the CL was greater than 0.90, and the SEM% was less than 14%. We conclude that the kinetic variables measured using the CB were reliable. The ability of the hands to maintain contact with the holds (peak force) and the abilities of the arms and shoulders vertically move the centre of mass (impulse) should be taken into account by coaches on CB training prescription as well for further research.
local.identifier.orcidhttps://orcid.org/0000-0002-4864-8821
local.identifier.orcidhttps://orcid.org/0000-0002-7024-3505
local.identifier.orcidhttps://orcid.org/0000-0003-3406-4558
local.identifier.orcidhttps://orcid.org/0000-0002-1955-8990
local.identifier.orcidhttps://orcid.org/0000-0001-7448-9636
local.publisher.countryBrasil
local.publisher.departmentEEF - DEPARTAMENTO DE ESPORTES
local.publisher.initialsUFMG
local.url.externahttps://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/14763141.2018.1456558

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